SUMO hyperbolically huge man. I recognized the bigger one from before—Konishiki (whose name means Little Brocade in japanese). He was maybe 500 pounds at the time, nothing Little nor rocade-like about him, and had, a ear previous, been vying for the title of grand champion. He was a veteran d, despite his size, was skillful. He twice the size of the younger estler, a 20-year-old named akahanada. (There are no weight divi- ions in sumo, | learned at that oment.) Konishiki launched at the rookie, nd Takahanada, after a bit of a dance, almly escorted th€ older man out of e ring with grace and authority. hat’s my guy, I thought immediately, at’s who I'll cheer for. Takahanada ad the single-mindedness, the equa- imity, of the purest of athletes. There as a certainty about him and a je ne is quoi that he displayed which I jould only equate with my other great rts idol—Guy LaFleur. Sounds diculous—TI'll be the first to admit at—and I still can't properly explain e similarity. But for me it is there. erhaps it is because both men seem to ist for no other reason than for their rt. In interviews they seem not to ve many other interests. And they th happen to be low-key, but effort- ssly charismatic envoys for their rts. Taka grew in both size and stature ring my time in Japan. He was a kiwake when I first saw him wrestle. analogous rank in the army would sergeant. He is now a five-star gen- , a yokozuna, a grand champion. e day he became ozeki, the same at which his sumo wrestling father d stalled, there was a sombre cere- ny in Tokyo. Taka then assumed the hting name of his father, anohana. VWrestier I went outside for some air after watching the footage on the late news, looked up into the night sky and saw that it was snowing, a rare thing in Southern Japan even in the winter, and, feeling completely at home and full of perspective and confidence, I thought simply, “T love this place.” After I had a few televised tourneys under my belt, some friends and I took the bus down to the port town of Shibushi to catch the pros live in an exhibition bout. Called jungyo, these bouts occur in between the major tournaments and draw people from all over the countryside. So, one winter weekday there we sat, among shrieking schoolchildren, rabid salarymen and wizened octogenarians, and watched the big guys go at it. People snapped pictures, and the brave ambled up to their heroes to touch their skin or get an acknowledgement. _ ‘T felt a little stupid walking over to where the wrestlers were standing, but did so anyway, and snapped a few quick pics with my disposable camera. The first thing I noticed about being near the rikishi was the smell. Or, I should say, the scent. The big men were all sweating and were, well, big, but what wafted off them was a sweet- smelling perfume that caught you in the throat, as if they had just emerged from a spa. It was, I was told later, the pomade that held their elaborately- F sculptured hair in place. It made the gym smell like a moisturizer factory. And another thing: up close, in per- son, the rikishi had a carriage that made them seem almost regal. They were composed, and with half-lidded eyes the men, the warriors, seemed somehow benign, like old drawings of the Buddha. With their hair in the chomagge style and their samurai robes, they cut an anachronistic figure, ‘which commanded them even more respect. All of a sudden, even the ones that had been bums in the last tourney, even the ones that had scored a weak 3—[2 record, now seemed somehow like royalty. It was edifying, even for those of us who werent particularly interested in the sport. We’ became schoolchildren that day in the school gym, clambering up onto.the dohyo after the show was over (and getting reprimanded by a tinny, but polite, electronic voice from the gymnasium loudspeaker) and going out to the buses to wave goodbye to the wrestlers. Akebono, the former Hawaiian high school basketball player, now grand champion, slowly looked over to us and, recognizing us as maybe being from his country, gave a pensive and strangely hopeful little wave. I still watch the sport, but from over here it is a little difficult. You can catch bits on television, and watch the whole basho on Sumo Digest, but the show is, after all,.a digest. It is so much more enjoyable when you know that at any given minute, a good quarter of the country is stalling on the way home, procrastinating in sushi bars or noodle shops to watch sumo with the other customers; or, in the morning, reading the editorials about the previous night's action; or discussing the latest controversy over the water cooler. But for a couple of years, it was my obsession. My Japanese friends shook their heads over my new hobby and looked at me with glassy-eyed patience as I described the style of the latest rookie. I remember being driven to the working visa office by my boss, M Sasaki, a regular and neccessary t hour journey, and speaking almost entire time about the previous day’s action in grammati ly-incorrect and continued page 24 wees |