November 13, 2002 Features The Search for fi student’s journey to Tibet Tejas Ewing Ubyssey VANCOUVER (CUP)—Travelling to Tibet is contro- versial. In 1949, China invaded Tibet, illegally occupying a country with a history of independence dating back to 127 B.C.E. (Before Common Era). This was done for strategic military reasons, to provide a ‘buffer zone’ between democratic India and communist China. Today, over 300,000 troops and one quarter of China’s nuclear missile force is in Tibet. The London-based Free Tibet campaign estimates that over 1.2 million Tibetans have died since the beginning of the occupation and over 6,000 monasteries have been destroyed. Because of outbreaks of violence and human rights violations ranging from censorship to torture, many groups that advocate a free Tibet are encouraging a complete tourism boycott. of the area, believing that tourism supports the Chinese regime and its actions. Despite all of this, I decided to travel to Tibet. I didn’t make the trip because I have no sympathy for the plight of Tibetans. I like to think I’m a socially con- scious traveller. The treatment of indigenous populations concerns me. I believe that people should have self-gov- ernment. I went there anyway. “What kind of a hypocrite is this guy?’ you might ask. Well, I don’t believe that I am a hypocrite: I’m just not an idealist. After living in Asia for 12 years, I don’t really believe that China will give Tibet up in my lifetime, tourism boycott or not. A lack of idealism, however, doesn’t mean Chinese actions in Tibet are justified. What the Chinese govern- ment has done—and continues to do—in Tibet is a bla- tant denial of human rights. Planning for my trip, I often wondered whether the voyage would do the opposite of what I intended—provide outright validation of the actions of the Chinese government. Dharma But, perhaps the key to change is in the future, not in the past. Travelling to Tibet showed me that tourism can actually help, rather than hinder, Tibetan attempts to raise awareness of their plight in the world and gain lever- age in their struggle for equitable treatment by the Chinese government. Despite urges for a boycott from some sympathetic groups, most human-rights advocates encourage visitors to make the trip. The Canada Tibet Committee holds this position, stating in its travel advisory pamphlet that “most Tibetans support tourism because it constitutes a means by which the outside world can learn of the con- ditions in Tibet and the aspirations of Tibetans.” In fact, the first travellers to Tibet after the border opened in the 1980s began the large scale ‘Free Tibet’ movement when they returned home. The Dalai Lama himself strongly encourages tourism, as long as it involves a conscious involvement in and understanding of the situation, rather than a glossed-over package tour controlled by Chinese tour guides. It is relatively easy to get to Tibet via a Chinese gov- ernment-sanctioned tour, run by a government travel agency. This kind of trip, however, achieves nothing. Instead, it does the serious harm of solidifying China's claim to the area, since you see what the Chinese want you to see and hear what they want you to hear. On his website (www.ciolek.com), Dr Matthew T. Ciolek, an Asian and Pacific Studies professor at the Australian National University in Canberra, informs readers that many tour guides will falsely say that the extensive dam- age to Tibetan monuments is a result of the 1904 British invasion. Or, if travellers witness a protest, guides will say it is a religious ceremony, calmly assuring visitors that Tibetans are allowed to freely express themselves as the tourists are ushered away before the police arrive. Tours organised by the Chinese government bring travellers to places that present Tibet as a peaceful, har- monious colony of China, places that prevent you from talking to the local people and seeing what life is really like. By making a bit of an effort, however, a traveller can see the other side of the story and bring this information back to his or her home country, perhaps helping to increase support for a free Tibet. All foreign journalists are prohibited from entering Tibet. Even tourists who behave too suspiciously can be harassed. However, if observations are made discreetly, the Free Tibet the other press Campaign suggests that “such reports by responsible travellers can be an important source of information tq support organisations outside of Tibet.” You don't see many news stories about the state o Tibet. Instead the most common source of informatio is from travellers who return home and feel compelled tq share their observations and spread the word. It can b¢ dangerous though. There are Chinese spies in man areas, and tourists have been arrested and detained fo unnecessary contact with Tibetans. Similarly, thos« Tibetans you speak to can be arrested. While having 4 private conversation with a Tibetan guide, restaurant o shop owner is not suspicious, acting like a journalist is. So, what other efforts should a traveller make? ’ll us my own experience as an example. First of all, choose Tibetan travel agency. There are a number of Tibetan owned agencies in Kathmandu, Nepal. One of the onl convenient flights into Tibet is from Nepal, and using these agents gives you the chance to spend a few days i Nepal. Try to plan a trip as an individual or with a frien or two; this gives you-the greatest amount of flexibility. travelled with my father and we were allowed places tha tours never go. Finally, make sure that the agency yo choose uses Tibetan guides, even if you cannot find 4 Tibetan travel agency. Many different travel agencies i the Vancouver area will make an effort to fulfill you request, and each request you make reduces the chance of the Chinese banning Tibetan guides. Such guides cannot be easily censored, and they pro vide an honest perspective to each place you choose t go. The risk of interference from Chinese spies is alsq limited, as they can’t possibly eavesdrop on your privat conversations. These guides can also help you plan a triy that takes you away from the controlled travel areas cre ated by the Chinese government. Our guide was not sh about telling us his thoughts on the current situation. I fact, many Tibetan guides see it as their responsibility. Without a Tibetan guide, I would never have learne« about Chinese attempts to overwhelm the Tibetan popu lation with Chinese migrants. Our guide explained tha| downtown Lhasa, Tibet's largest city, is now populated primarily by ethnic Chinese who have displaced loca Tibetans, including himself and his family. He explaine« that Chinese now outnumber Tibetans by over a millio He told us that his son has moved to Dharamsala, India where he could finally learn Buddhism and the Tibetaj language, unhindered. Photos by Tejas Ewi © page 18