6—San Mateo

 

 

THE TIMES

Root

By IVA NEWMAN

We have long recom-
mended that people with a
certain flower as a hobby
should join a society dedi-
cated to growing that flower
exceptionally well. There is
always someone in such a
society who experiments
with new ideas and reports
the results to the member-
ship. This month Harry
Nagel, horticultural editor
for the American Fushsia
Society Bulleton, reports on
the relationship of root-prun-
ing and repotting of Japa-
nese Bonsai and the root-
pruning and repotting of
fuchsias.

Nagle points out that the
entire performance of the
bonsai plant is controlled by
the regulation of root
growth. He -goes on to say,
“With a fuchsia, or for that
matter for any plant, the
control or lack thereof of
root structure can make or
break the performance of the
entire plant.” .

Professional growers have
long known that there is a

definite eclasicciahip hu between
the size of the root structure
and the size of a plant. They
have learned that a plant
cannot develop its proper top
structure without a corre-
sponding development of its
root structure and vice-
versa. The two are closely
related in an unpotted, free-
growing plant in the garden
and are badly maladjusted in
a potted plant.

Basically the plant is fed
by the fine hair-like feeder
roots. The thick, rope-like

-roots are of little value

except to connect the hair
roots to the “‘pipes” within
the trunk which pass the food
and moisture to the leaves
for digestion. In a free-grow-
ing plant the hair roots
around the base of the plant
will reach out seeking nour-
ishment at what is called the
drip line. This is the circle of
soil directly beneath the out-
side circumference of the
top structure. Even if the

only moisture available is
fog, this drips from the out-
side circumference of the

Friday, Feb. 7, 1975

DOUGLAS

head down to the circle of
the. drip line on the soil. It is
in this area that the roots
pick up the food most effec-

tively and it is in this circle

that fertilizers are most

effectively applied.

Top Shades Roots
The top of the plant acts
as a shade for the roots in

summer. In only a light driz-

zle or rain, the top acts as an
umbrella and ‘concentrates
the drip in the circle for
most effective watering of
the plant. Plants cannot
absorb food without mois-
ture.

After the plant has been
pruned back each year it
must completely rebuild its
top structure to replace that
natural umbrella over the
roots. Until the green struc-
ture is completely replaced
it is not likely the plant will
try to bloom. Nature has a
way of protecting itself and
the urge to protect the roots
of a plant is a very definite
characteristic of plant
growth.

COLLEGE LIBRARY

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wht nO

Pruning,
Repotting Your Fuchsias

Nagle reports that “if a
fuchsia plant is not pruned
annually it will spread all
over the place with a large,

non-producing head and a
large root structure. Then, if
the plant is pruned later, the
root structure is all out of
proportion with what the
plant can develop in top

structure during its growing

season. Obviously, therefore,
not only must the top be
pruned to develop all new
flowering wood for the next
season, but the roots must
also be cut back to keep the
plant in balance.”

For a plant in the ground
this is easy. After the top has
been pruned back just take a
spade and push it into the

‘soil in a circle just a little

inside of the former diame-
ter of the top and cut off the
outer limits sf the roots. Do
not cut too closely to the
trunk as some roots must
remain just to keep the plant

right-side up in the wind.

Later, when you fertilize,
spread the fertilizer in the

 

same circle, give or take six-
inches outside, to coax the
roots outward again. There
is very little to be gained by
applying fertilizer to any
: ant close up to the trunk.
Keep it out at the drip line.

Roots Can’t Spread in Pot
With a potted plant the plant
is frustrated. It cannot
spread its roots outward to

the drip line but it tries by
sending the roots out and

around in a circle within the » no ropes. The plant is now:

confines of the pot until they
become all entangled. Imme-
diately after the potted plant
is pruned the entire plant is
knocked out of the pot and
the soil is gently removed
from around the roots. The
soil should be only damp and
not wet and soggy as root
damage may result . The
long ropes of roots are

untangled gently and
stretched out so that one
may see just where the long
ropes extend and where the
fine hair roots are close to
the trunk. With sharp, clean
shears, the long ropes are
removed to the point where
there is a strong cluster of
fine hair roots in the center
for future growth. Damaged
roots are also cut clean to
prevent decay. Properly
done there should be just a
‘“thead”’ of fine hair roots and

ready for repotting.

- Root pruning and top prun-

ing are both a shock to a
plant just as an operation is
a shock to the system of a
person. For this reason
plants should be taken one at
4 time and the roots and tops
pruned and the plant imme-

diately replanted in a fresh
soil mixture. Spreading the
pruning operation gives the
plants two shocks to get
over. :

Nagle recommends a soil
mixture consisting of one-
third organic material, such
as leaf mold, composted fir
or redwood bark or similar
organic materials, one-third
cow or steer manure and
one-third good garden soil or
the soil from last year’s
pots. This should have been
prepared last fall and
allowed to compost. How-
ever, he feels there is still
time in the colder sections to
mix up a batch, dampen it
and let it stand for a few
weeks or more before prun-
ing and repotting.

Pots that have been used
should be

scrubbed before re-using.
The hole in the bottom of the

thoroughly

pot should be covered with a
piece of crock to keep the
hole open for drainage. We
use a square of aluminum
screen and cover it with pine
' needles or a half-inch of %-
inch gravel. Nagle recom-
mends the pine needles, to
hold the soil in the pot up and
away from the drainage holl.
Once the plant is repotted it
should be thoroughl
watered. Some growers du
their plants in a large tub to
thoroughly soak the soil and
then prop up the bottom to
assure complete drainage.

No fertilizer is used until
the plant begins to show
green growth. Particular
care must be taken not to
burn the new hair roots.
Even when the plant begins
to develop green growth take’
it easy on fertilizer strength
until real vigorous growth
develops. Then the one-a-
week program can be devel-
oped with half strength feed-
ings.